I’ve got a roll of Blue Geeetech ABS+ that starts to smoke when it’s still so cold that its layer adhesion is terrible, and just burns in the nozzle whenever it’s not actively extruding if the temperature is high enough that it sticks to itself. Obviously, this is bad, and it sooted up a nozzle so badly that it needed to be replaced before I gave up on it.
I’m looking into getting a new printer, and I’m interested in building my own. I know Voron 2.4 and Trident are the obvious ones to look at. But I can’t help but notice they are both 3+ year old printers. Considering how much the industry has grown in the last few years, it got second guessing if Voron is still the way to go.
I’m reorganising my hobby space and I could really use some inspiration for cool and effective ways to do this. I have a rectangular room of about 15sqrm (6m x 2.5m) for this, I also have a treadmill in there so I don’t have tons of space.
Hello, who do you guys get your files from? Im trying to find some cool designs and someone who drops files pretty frequently to make it worth using printer space, let me know what you guys think! Thanks
It will be a 240x280x70ish speaker stand. The first go ground with it flat and support free resulted in warping despite a 60°C chamber, so I stood it on its end, cut print speed by a third, and added the breaks to reduce stress.
I’m curious why I don’t hear more about mattercad here or elsewhere? It’s free (not FOSS), and for me really fills the gap between tinkercad and most professional cad software. I often see questions about people wanting to move beyond tinkercad but being intimidated by the learning curve and the fairly large jump between it and higher powered software. Mattercad fits so nicely in this space. Yes it’s a bit slow once shapes get more complex, and it has some frustrating bugs that I don’t think will ever be fixed, but it’s both powerful and simple.
I’m curious if there are places people think it falls short or if you think I’m wrong and there is a better intermediate software package I should be considering?
This particular filament (Sunlu matte HS PETG) is one of the absolute worst I’ve ever used WRT being hygroscopic. It arrived so wet that I had literal steam from the extruder the first time I wanted to use it. It took almost 48h in my drier to dry it completely so I could use it. Its been sitting in an airtight box with dessicant for 5 weeks and I needed to dry it for >16h for it to be usable again. The wet part in this print was in the bowden tube between dryer and printer, I restarted the print after took this image.
I’m trying to find the reason why my bigger printer suddenly decided to constantly create blockages as high as the PTFE tube in the cooling block (so a little bit above the heatbreak).
I got one last week and it’s good, real good. But like too good? So I’ll never have to worry about bed adhesion, which is not a problem very often but is the most common problem on the stock textured PEI plate that the printer comes with. But with the cool plate I definitely don’t have to worry about it. Conversely, I have to worry about getting my prints off the bed without damaging them.
I recently decided to force myself to actually learn FreeCad. I’ve tried on and off for the past two years but just couldn’t get along with the UI and workflow…well, now I’m giving it an honest shot, and after a few weeks of misery, it is getting better.
Designing a simple photo frame. I wanted to make it so that it prints without supports. While printing, however, the back support part wobbles/vibrates with movement, and is printing terribly.
Back in 2018 I bought an Ender 3 and over the years after a lot of tinkering and upgrading I got really sick of having to work on it, so I shelved it permanently a few years ago. I didn’t have very much I wanted to print by then anyway, and another print failure that resulted in a giant ball of plastic covering the hotend for the umpteenth time tipped me over the edge. I could only disassemble it for service so many times before I started wanting to give it the Office Space treatment.
I’ve had a MK4S for over a week now, and 100% of the prints I’ve tried to make on the textured sheets have partially or totally failed. PLA prints beautifully on the smooth sheet, but PLA, PETG and ABS, I think I could print on the surface of a 10 inch tank of oil with more success than the textured sheet. Plastic doesn’t stick to it. I’ve wiped it with isopopyl, I’ve washed it with dawn…it’s a bad print surface and I want my money back.
I’m about to paint a PLA 3D print for the first time, and while there is some advice on what primer to use (an automotive etching plastic primer seems to be it), I’ve not see anything but hand wavy “add a layer of clear coat” for sealing.
I was pretty excited about Prusa’s OpenPrintTag specs and the implication with NFC tags, but there weren’t any apps available that could generate them (or read the bin files generated on the site), so I built (well… mostly vibe coded) an app!
After Having experimented in Making Perfectly Smooth Surfaces for about a Year now within the Print Process itself, Its time I Capitulate and start putting in some more Work and Sand it all smooth!
I’ve finally reached a brick wall where I can’t just find something on Printables/Thingiverse that I can modify for my use case. Until now, I’ve been able to find something close and use OrcaSlicer to make small adjustments or occasionally kit bash two models together.
Tried printing the frog from this set at 75% scale, and it came out like this. The original 3mf for this one doesn’t include supports. What should I adjust on my printer to get better overhangs without supports?
Full brims, mouse ears, with glue, without glue, higher bed temperature, lower bed temperature, flat base, concentric cutout base - whatever I try, I seem to be getting wank adhesion, major warping, and ultimately this shitshow.
Added a PEI plate for my Artillery Genius using bull clips, and after leveling the leveling/adhesion test print comes out like this. Is this just me leveling the bed too close to the nozzle, or is it the pei plate not heating up as much as the original glass bed? It’s at 60c btw
Is a CR-Touch sensor a “consumable”? Creality thinks so. After our CR-10 SE failed, we spent 23 days fighting a warranty claim that should have taken minutes.
Hi all,
I want to buy my son a 3D printer for his 20th birthday.
He is a third year computer science major, so has no issues with the software side.
I have no idea where to start, or even what questions to ask.
Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Over the summer I picked up a secondhand Saturn 2 to play around with. Pretty quickly got it dialed in and was getting good prints out of it, mostly miniatures for tabletop games
So, because I’m a lazy fuck with an extra print sheet, I decided to go against the advice on the internet, and test how my print sheet would handle my dishwasher.
I’m wanting to move my main machine over to Linux, but I’ve heard mixed things about Orca Slicer working with Linux. Can anyone give any advice on either having it work or a Linux alternative with similar functionality?
I’m printing some Gridfinity bins for some drawers, and one of them needs to be quite tall to fulfill its purpose (18u, ~130mm). I took a shortcut and generated one from this generator using the default wall thickness and printed using Prusament PLA. This resulted in the walls falling in on itself, and my second failed print.
I need some help troubleshooting my print issues. A while back (months) I updated the firmware on my Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro. After I did that, I have not been able to get a quality print since. (I’m a teacher and a dad, so I just haven’t had many free moments to sit down and really work on it.) My worst issue is the Z axis on the calibration cube. X and Y are less egregious. Using Elegoo Rapid PLA+ and the same default settings I was using pre-update. Any advice would be helpful.
I’m a total noob when it comes to 3D printing and am frankly bewildered by all the options for machines. I don’t want to buy a printer and find out it won’t smoothly handle ASA. In fact my first print will almost certainly be a custom mount so that I can put my Tempest PWS on a 5"x5” vinyl fence post.
I had a lot of ASA to spare from a voron 2.4 project. I decided to use some of it printing the prusa rocket engine just for the fun of it, maxing out my printers volume with a height of 310mm. I printed it without any supports, and it does show some obvious issues in areas with large overhangs, but generally the printing quality is pretty good. It took 16h13m to print the entire thing and used a little under 400g of filament, 0.2mm layer height, 10% lightning infill, 2 walls.
I just got an Ender-3 V3 KE and am currently keeping it in my garage until I can free-up space inside. My question is how cold is too cold for the printer to be okay if not in use and powered off?
Hello, everyone. I have a 5 year old voxelabs aquila (ender 3v2). It worked great for 2 years then started modding it, since then problems. Im at the point with bltouch and klipper from raspi4 and custom fans that it might not be worth my time to even fix. Previous 3d printed fan shroud broke and printer another, but there is supports in the blower tubes i cant remove fully plus removed the x? Stop sensor as thought was good after starting with klipper and setting it all up but it smashes to the end of the line and errors so that needs to fixed. Plus never really got the bltouch working due to wrong offsets. Idk sounds like small issues i could fix but i just want a working 3d printer.
Everything was going great until I had to replace some parts. The nozzles I bought as backup? They’re supposed to be for the K1 but they didn’t fit. That’s how I found out I’ll need nozzles that cost $20 each, or more.
This stereo rail consists of three 3D-printed parts, two 3/8” screws, 1/4” insert, and a 2020 aluminum profile. It puts the microphone capsules as close as possible together, on a vertical axis, and in a 90° angle to each other.
Each mic capsule consists of a front and back membrane. The mics, two Austrian Audio OC818 have two outputs each - one for each membrane.
This way, all directions are covered and I can generate all kinds of stereo and surround signals afterwards in my DAW.
Like where is a good place to buy stl files online, so far ive only printed free files but i think i want to try those neat paid ones, im just not sure where to buy stl files from?
I enjoy tinkering and doing hands-on projects, so I’ve been looking more into upgrade options recently. While browsing around, I came across a Prusa MINI+ Dual Z-axis upgrade kit on Printables, with a full parts list and an assembly video. It caught my attention mostly because I’ve been enjoying DIY projects lately.
My seven year old niece and her friends all decided their group hangs are officially now the ‘Cherry Mochi Club’ and all future hangs are club business, so I made these membership cards and will be giving them to her at Christmas to hand out to her friends. Took a lot longer than I had anticipated to create but learned some cool new things in Tinkercad while creating them.
My seven year old niece and her friends all decided their group hangs are officially now the ‘Cherry Mochi Club’ and all future hangs are club business, so I made these membership cards and will be giving them to her at Christmas to hand out to her friends. Took a lot longer than I had anticipated to create but learned some cool new things in Tinkercad while creating them.
I’m selling my used Ender 3 v2, and I’ve upgraded the hotend, extruder, screen, and bed. It comes with 25 extra nozzles, the old glass bed, and whatever else goes with it (e.g. I can’t remember). Is $200 CAD a reasonable price, with delivery?
My print bed is having heating issues. The “internal” bed is only heating up to 57-58C while the “external” is heating up to any temperature I set it to.
I was having serious leveling issues with my Ender 3v3 (https://programming.dev/post/42345126), and I tried so many different things like probe calibration and even total factory reset before I finally figured out what the issue was. The z axis camera mount that I added. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6702771. Taking it off fixed the bed leveling issues right away, and after wasting half a spool, I’m finally able to print my rookie designs. Thanks for all your help and advice! I’m so happy to see such an active 3d printing community on lemmy.
Hey everyone,
I want to create a stencil for the common elements I use when journaling. Reference picture attached. Now that I figured out how to work with text in FreeCAD, I hit the unexpected but in hindsight obvious roadblock of finding a font that can be printed “negatively”? I am not sure how to properly word it, but the gist is that the text can’t have parts disconnected from the rest of the stencil. Check the uppercase B and D letters in the picture, i.e. Dafont.com has the Stencil category, but everything in there is pretty military looking. So my question is: Does anyone know of a freely available font for such a use case?
I don’t often toot my own horn on the internet, but I made this for myself and it turned out pretty well. I know I’m pretty late to the game but I put a Prussa MK4 together at my school last year for another teacher (who didn’t have the time to do it) and have been slowly learning the ropes. It’s a remix, but this was the first thing that I made the final model from (nearly) scratch and didn’t just print someone else’s stl.
This thing just released sometime last week to little or zero fanfare and honestly looks like a Bambu killer to me. It’s priced under anything that Bambu offers in the class with way better specs.
I was getting rid of some spool ends the other day by manually feeding them in while printing. That way I was able to push all these ends past any sensors and into the extruder for uninterrupted printing. It came out fine but was quite tedious.
I’m working on some models and have found that if I add an SVG modifier, Orca slices it beautifully. But I’d rather have the SVG’s “baked” in the model so it’s easier for others to download and freely share the STLs and print without a 3mf.
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